The Roman method: spaghetti tossed with crisp guanciale, egg yolks, Pecorino Romano, black pepper and starchy pasta water into a glossy sauce. No cream, about 25 minutes.
400gspaghetti, rigatoni, tonnarelli or mezze maniche14 oz
1tbspfine sea saltabout 18 g, for 4 litres / 4 quarts water
150gguanciale or thick-cut unsmoked pancetta5 oz, rind removed, cut into 1 cm x 5 mm / ⅜ x ¼ in strips
5large egg yolksat room temperature
1large whole eggat room temperature
100gPecorino Romano3 ½ oz, finely grated, about 1 cup, plus extra to serve
2tspcoarsely ground black pepper
Instructions
Bring 4 litres (4 quarts) of water to a boil and add the salt.
Put the guanciale in a large cold pan over medium-low heat. Cook 8–10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the fat is translucent and the edges are golden and crisp. Turn off the heat.
Whisk the yolks, whole egg, pecorino and pepper into a thick paste.
Cook the pasta 1 minute less than the package time. Whisk 2–3 tbsp hot pasta water into the egg mixture.
Reserve 360 ml (1 ½ cups) pasta water, then drain. Add the pasta to the guanciale with 60 ml (¼ cup) pasta water and toss over medium heat for 1 minute.
Take the pan off the heat and wait 30–60 seconds until it stops sizzling.
Add the egg mixture and toss constantly for 1–2 minutes, adding pasta water a little at a time, until the sauce is thick, glossy and creamy. Leave it slightly loose; it thickens as it sits.
Serve immediately with extra pecorino and pepper.
Notes
Eggs thicken at about 65°C (150°F) and turn grainy above about 70°C (158°F). Keep the pan off the heat; if the sauce stays runny, return it to the lowest heat for 10–15 seconds at a time while tossing.For more control, toss the pasta with the eggs in a heatproof bowl set over the pot of simmering water.Cream variation (not traditional): whisk 60 ml (¼ cup) heavy cream into the egg mixture and use less pasta water.The eggs are not reliably heated to a safe temperature; use pasteurised eggs for vulnerable guests.Best eaten straight away. Leftovers: fridge up to 2 days, reheat gently with a splash of water.
Keyword authentic carbonara, carbonara, carbonara without cream, guanciale, pecorino pasta, Roman carbonara, spaghetti carbonara