Homemade Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter and Sage
Baked floury potatoes riced while hot and mixed with just enough flour to make a soft dough, shaped into ridged gnocchi, boiled until they float and tossed in brown butter with crisp sage and Parmigiano.
1kg(2 ¼ lb) floury potatoes (russet, Idaho, Maris Piper or King Edward), similar in size
150–200g(1 ¼–1 ⅔ cups) "00" or plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
1large egg yolk (optional)
1tsp(6 g) fine sea salt
semolina or extra flour, for the tray
1 ½tbsp(about 27 g) fine sea salt, for 5 litres (5 quarts) cooking water
Brown butter and sage sauce
60g(4 tbsp) unsalted butter
12fresh sage leaves
40g(about ½ cup) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus extra to serve
freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
Heat the oven to 200°C (400°F, gas mark 6). Prick the potatoes and bake directly on the rack for 50–70 minutes, until a thin knife slides in with no resistance.
While hot, scoop out or peel the flesh and pass it through a ricer or food mill onto a work surface. Spread it out and leave 10–15 minutes until just warm and no longer steaming.
Weigh the potato (about 750–800 g / 1 ⅔–1 ¾ lb) and plan on flour equal to 20–25% of its weight.
Sprinkle over the salt, add the yolk if using and about three-quarters of the flour. Cut and fold together with a bench scraper, press into a ball and knead gently for 30 seconds until smooth and only slightly tacky, adding more flour only if needed.
Bring 5 litres (5 quarts) water to a boil with the salt. Cook one test gnocco; if it falls apart, knead in 1 tbsp more flour and test again.
Divide the dough into 4, roll into 2 cm (¾ in) ropes on a lightly floured surface, and cut into 2 cm (¾ in) pieces. Roll over a fork or gnocchi board if you like.
Spread on a semolina-dusted tray in a single layer.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat with the sage, swirling, for 3–4 minutes until nutty and light brown and the sage is crisp.
Boil the gnocchi in 2–3 batches. When they float, after about 1 ½–2 minutes, cook 30–60 seconds more, then lift into the butter with 2–3 tbsp cooking water.
Toss gently until glossy. Off the heat, add the Parmigiano and pepper, and serve.
Notes
Avoid waxy or new potatoes. Yukon Gold works but needs more flour.
If boiling instead of baking, cook the potatoes whole and unpeeled from cold salted water for 25–35 minutes, then peel and rice hot.
Never use a food processor or blender; it turns the potato gluey.
Freeze uncooked gnocchi on the tray until hard (about 1 hour), then bag for up to 2 months. Cook from frozen in smaller batches, allowing 1–2 minutes longer.
Make ahead: boil, toss with olive oil, cool and refrigerate up to 24 hours, then pan-fry in butter.
Leftovers: fridge up to 2 days; pan-fry until hot and crisp.
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