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Italian cooking rewards a few good ingredients handled well. Roman carbonara gets its sauce from egg yolks, Pecorino and pasta water, with no cream. Potato gnocchi need floury potatoes and a light hand with the flour. The Margherita pizza dough can be made the same day or cold-fermented for up to three days, and spinach and ricotta stuffed shells can be assembled ahead or frozen. Finish with a tiramisu made the day before.

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